Saturday, November 27, 2010


More M13's


I was in a funk. I had looked forward to the November new moon event. After a Spring and summer with far too many cloudy days, we desert dwellers were due our allotted clear nights! But light cirrus clouds spoiled the November sky transparency and our enthusiasm.

I had observed a couple of hours when I walked over to my friend Dee Friesen's setup. He was working on The Albuquerque Astronomical Society (TAAS) 200 list and had located NGC 55. He invited me to have a look. The scope was pointed almost at the horizon. Instead of black sky with bright jewel-like stars, I looked at an atmosphere-dense, mud-gray background with stars so dim as to be faint fuzzies themselves.

"It is between the two stars in the center of the field." I moved the scope so that the stars were on the left side of the field, then to the right. I moved my eye far to the left and right. "I see nothing" I said. "It's there." he replied.

I walked back to my van and began packing my stuff. Alan Scott walked over and inquired about my early departure.

"I have lost my mo-jo, Alan" I said. "It is no fun searching for faint galaxies under these conditions."

Alan sympathized with my depression. He said, "you know, we need more M13's."

Driving back to Albuquerque, I thought about what Alan said. Maybe it wasn't so much the weather as the choice of objects we have made.

One is first introduced to the Messier objects. For a beginner, the Messier objects can be challenging but afford exciting views of the universe. They continue to delight advanced astronomers but, in the end, there are only 110 of them.

You are afraid they will become like Beatles songs, played so much they lose their magic.

So you try to add variety. For us in TAAS, there is the aforementioned TAAS 200 list. Maybe a quarter of the objects in that list are jewels but most are forgettable due to dimness.

People offer the Hershel 400. Now there are dim objects. Add the ARP list and you have objects hardly distinguishable from a 14th magnitude star.

With these choices, it is easy to get into a funk.

What is needed is a new Messier list. There are, after all, 2 Hershel lists. The second list needs the name, What-Messier-Should-Have-Seen list, or, simply Messier II.

I would venture to offer some points on choices for the list.

Magnitude

You have surely been assailed by some fellow insisting you look at the 12th magnitude galaxy in his 8 inch reflector. You see perhaps a smoky pinpoint. But your collegue plies you with elaborate descriptions of "striated arms on both sides of the face, each arm having several outward facing spurs...". Some drink the Koolaid and go to others talking of striated arms. Most of you, however, maintain a healthy scepticism toward such fancifulness.

The little dumbell nebula, M76, is 10th magnitude. It is diminutive in smaller scopes but has some life with higher magnitude in bigger telescopes. Go to an 11th magnitude object and you are pressed to find a reason to continually return to it.

There are exceptions but anything beyond 10th magnitude should not be on Messier II list.


Location

The sculptor galaxy may be a great Messier II list candidate for Key West residents, not for astronomers in upper Michigan peninsula.

There are presumably sufficient objects in constellations that are visible for months in the Northern Hemisphere. I suggest that a Messier II be restricted to choices in those constellations.
In New Mexico we are fortunate to be able to see Omega Centauri for a time each Spring. That object should not however be on Messier II because of the short duration for viewing.

Color

When you show others Hershel's garnet star, inevitably someone claims another star as even redder. People like color. Mention carbon stars to David Frizzell and watch his eyes light up.

Dee Friesen likes binary stars because they show color variation. There is a binary star in the original Messier list, why not in Messier II?

Quirkiness

M46 is an open cluster in Puppis. Star hopping to the object is difficult. One might prefer the easier-to-find Auriga open clusters. What makes M46 special is the embedded planetary nebula. This unusual aspect favors it over other clusters.

Quirkiness makes an object stick in memory. I don't forget M46 because of an inadvertant trick Greg Dillon pulled on me. Greg pushed the magnification of M46's planetary to 1000x in his 25" reflector. It appeared to be M57 in a December sky.

Greg likes another object, the hockey stick galaxy, NGC 4656, which indeed has a weird and unforgettable hockey stick shape.

Sometimes Good

There are objects which mostly look like blobs, but on a special night, shine. I think of a night's viewing with Eric Edwards at Chaco canyon. We had the scope on M101. Maybe we got a whiff of ancient Anazasi peyote pipe but both of us saw a sparkly face-on galaxy with spiral arms. A half hour later I went back and saw what subsequently I normally see, a blob. Since then I go to M101 often hoping it will fire up again.

Like Cepheid variable stars, some objects rise to prominence and fade. That trait makes them stick out.

List Size

Locating 400 Hershel objects is daunting. Even the TAAS 200 objects can take years to locate. 100 objects seems the right number for the Messier II list.

Call To Arms

Our club members and astronomers in general amaze me. Dedication abounds. Those who created the TAAS 200 list showed persistence and brilliance. The list that I propose is more limited in scope and location than the TAAS 200. I do not have the knowledge to create a Messier II list on my own. I need assistance. Will you help?

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Germany Trip Summer 2010





May 25 Tuesday
After a 9 hour 45 minute flight from Dallas to Frankfurt, we were deposited at the Frankfurt airport. First impression was that we were still in the United States. Store fronts looked the same. Buildings were modern. People clothed in same type of clothing. Same haircuts. Some difference in racial makeup but not enough to stand out.

There even was enough English that a non-German speaker would not have been alarmed. Dee and Richard and his wife Pat were there to pick us up. We went directly to the car rental. A huge silver Mercedes sat there in the center of the rental booths.




Dee is fluent in German and needed no help in getting what he needed. There are, of course, enough Germans fluent in English that German language ability is unnecessary. But few Germans feel comfortable immediately speaking English; most do so reluctantly.

The van that Dee rented was a large square Renault. This and the car rented by Roger would be our shuttle vehicles for the next two weeks.





May 26 Wednesday
Ankommen in Deutschland
Until we reached Bacharach, everything looked much like the United States. However, the architecture there was out of a fairy tale.



We met Erik and his wife Iris, owners of Hillen Hotel where we stayed.
Both spoke easily understood Hochdeutsch.






There were 9 people in our group:
Dee Friesen, group leader,
John Dyer,
John Woods,
Ed Hernandez,
Will Ferrell,
Roger Riggs,
Cheryl Riggs,
Richard Cullison,
Pat Cullison
(There are two extra people in the picture.)

After arriving I had my first Bratwurst und Brötchen which cost 2,30 Euros. It was delicious and as I remembered it. The evening meal in contrast was forgettable so I have nothing to say about it.

Erik's Neighbors
I asked Erik about used book stores. I debated about asking him because the concept in Germany, as I remembered, was completely unknown. He, however, immediately took me across the street and introduced me to his neighbor. This fellow is a computer programmer and Internet surfer in general. He also loves books. He had perhaps 50,000 books in his house including complete works by authors such as Heinrich Boll, Sigfried Lenz, Herman Hesse and so many of the best German authors. He sold me four books for four Euros. What a deal!
Plus Iris gave me a couple of novels left by guests.

May 27 Thursday
First Bike Ride in Germany



The bicycles that we rented were commuter bikes. The bike trail that we rode there lent itself to such a bike. A road bike would have been out of place. But such a bike is hard on the butt and the lower back. Long distance riding was out of the question as it would have been very stressful on the body.

Ride to Bingen and back 24 miles (40 kilometers)


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Bingen is east of Bacharach, probably several times bigger but not near as big as Mainz or Wiesbaden. The architecture reminded me more of Meldorf and the smaller North German cities although one would find such places in big cities as well. What makes it different from American cities are the cobblestone streets and the more cramped spacing of buildings.

We visited a graveyard on the way to Bingen. Two things about German graveyards. Each grave is carefully maintained by relatives. When a grave no longer has anyone to maintain the grave, the occupant of the site is removed and replaced. Pretty gruesome to our thinking but we saw it repeatedly in Germany.

Also each graveyard had a memorial to town soldiers lost in WWI and WWII. It is worth noting that each village lost its young men in numbers that far outstrip war losses in the United States






We had lunch at a cafe. Sorry, not as much fun as the Stehcafe (tables with no chairs). I had Fleischwurst with Kartoffelsalat

Visit to Marktburg Fortress


We had a guided tour of the castle which should in fact be called a fortress because of its location and its fortifications. What follows are pictures of the various areas of the castle with some comments.

Armory
This was not the first room shown us but it was for me the most interesting.





Bedroom
What most struck me was the short bed. Although the people in medieval times were shorter than today, the main reason for the short bed was that people sleep sitting up. It had to do with the superstition that a prostrate person was a dead person.




Refrigerator
In the winter time, people went down to the river and cut a large chunk of ice. This was put in the top half of the refrigerator. The food was put in the lower half. Because cold air goes down, the food was thus refrigerated. One only hoped that the ice lasted into the summer.
Bathroom
The bathroom was nothing more than a small room with an opening to the outside of the castle. One would not want to be on the ground when another person was doing his business.




Priest's Area
To me the most appealing area in the castle was the priest's area. Because he was often the only literate person in the castle, he had more light in his room for reading. The other rooms were dark.

For a change from wurst, we had an evening Meal of pizza with dark beer.

May 28 Friday
grosses Fruhstuck 4! Brötchen, Saft, Muesli und Cornflakes mit Milch
Today we rode in the opposite direction on the Rhein. The ride to St Goar was a 40 mile round trip.


View Larger Map

We rode past the Loreley which is a high cliff at a bend in the river. The story is that the sirens sang their alluring song and enchanted the sailors so that they did not pay attention to the dangerous obstruction. The ship capsized and the sailors drown. The water is 25 meters deep at the Loreley cliff.



We had lunch in St Goar, Fleischwurst mit Kartoffelsalat, another type of wurst with potato salad.

Evening meal Spiegeleier mit Schinken, Spargel und Strudel

May 29 Saturday
Travel day to Rothenburg o.d.T. with stop in Mainz

We left Bacharach at 9:00 am intending to spend a couple of hours in Mainz and then go to Rothenburg ob der Taube. When we got to Mainz, Ed asked me if I had his passport. It was at that point that I first realized that I had left the passports, plane tickets and American money in the safe in Bacharach.

Mainz

Rather than have everyone travel back to Bacharach, we decided that I would take the train. I wasn't too upset by this prospect because, other than the time I spent with the book enthusiast, I had had no "total immersion" in the culture that I once lived in.

None of Mainz was familiar to me. It was sad but I could not even find my way to the university where I went to school. All of that period is gone from my memory. Especially shameful because this is a beautiful city.

Because time was short, I gave up trying to go to the university and headed for the train station. I could not find a place to buy the tickets; I couldn't even find the train schedule. I went to the information booth and asked when the next train to Bacharach left and where the departure platform was. I found the platform easily with instructions.

So now I knew when and where the train departure was. I needed a ticket. I saw the automats and tried to use them. Could not figure out which code to use for Bacharach. Typed in Bacharach and found out the price of a one way ticket there was 7,80 euros but found no way to purchase a ticket on that automat.

After 20 minutes of frustration, I went back to the information booth. Same girl, giving me a look of disgust. She told me to use the automat on the far end. It alone gave tickets to Bacharach.

Found the machine, punched in the needed answers and was told to deposit 7,80 for one way and 15 for round trip. I chose one way and put in a ten euro bill. I waited awhile. When nothing happened, I decided that I had inadvertantly chosen round trip and put a 5 euro bill in the machine. So I added 5 more euros to the apparat. I received a one way ticket and change for a 10 euro bill. The 5 euros disappeared without a trace.

Got on the train to Koblenz. One has to know the end point of the trip to know if one is on the correct train. Sat next to a young man from the Schwarzwald who had been traveling on trains since 6:45 this morning. He was on his way to Dortmund to visit his girlfriend and help her move to Mainz where they planned to be together.

He asked me if he was on the right train and if he needed to change trains in Koblenz to get to Koln before another switch to the Dortmunder train. I was barely able to help myself and could not be of any assistance to him. But it was nice to know that I was not alone having trouble with the German train system.

I envied my travel mate. He had big plans and looked forward to a new life with his girlfriend. The train we traveled had no air conditioning and was stifling hot. A couple of young fellows tried unsuccessfully to open a window. I noticed that my buddy had a bouquet of roses for his girl friend. The heat in the compartment had caused the roses to wilt. I hoped his girl friend was not too demanding. He had the best intentions.

Got to Bacharach, suffered the jokes of Erik and Iris as they returned the passports, etc to me. Got a return ticket to Mainz and did not have the problems this time with the automat. The trip back was equally interesting as the train was packed full and more.

The others spent what they said was a great day in Mainz. They toured the Mainzer Dom, a gothic cathedral in the town center. The cathedrals in Europe are magnificent; the new world has nothing to match. Even small villages have awe-inspiring churches. This would become even more conspicuous as the trip progressed.






I met back up again with the group and we drove to Rothenburg o.d.T. This is a medieval town with Gothic houses and offers a glance back in German history. You can see it in that light or you can see it as a German tourist trap. Whichever, there were great picture taking opportunities which are here.





I had a fairly tasty meal of Bratwurst again but with Sauerkraut and Bratkartoffeln this time.

Sunday May 30
Bicycle ride along the Tauber river
We got up next day and had more Brötchen, Käse and muesli. We then picked up our bikes from Fahrrad Kraus. We rode in the "lieblicher Taubertal". This is the valley through which the Tauber river flows. It was quite lovely as the picture shows.






We got back to town and I did my own brief walk through of Rothenburg buying Kekse, German cookies, at the market. They were not as good tasting as I remembered but others in the group said they found them quite good.



That evening we were present at one of the city's night watchman presentations. In medieval Rothenburg, the night watchman served as the policeman and lighter of the street lamps among other things. In this case, the modern night watchman tells us tourists of the history of Rothenburg in a most amusing way.

This fellow had a dry wit and a brilliant presentation mode that was as good as any I have seen. There was much to say about Rothenburg's rise to influence in the medieval era, its decline after being defeated and destroyed, its rebirth with tourism, near destruction in World War II and its modern prosperity.

Had a dish of spinach, noodles and cheese that evening before going to the night watchman spectacle. The dish is called Maultaschen and we saw it repeatedly on menus.

Monday May 31
Travel day to the Schwarzwald

Next day we walked along the Rothenburg city wall before traveling four or five hours to the Black Forest. This area of southeastern Germany is also known as Badem Würtenberg and Schwabia. The "Schwaben" are known to be hardworking and narrow-minded in their thinking. Their dialect varies a good deal from that of their Northern neighbors.






After a beautiful drive through the black forest, we arrived in Schiltach late afternoon and met Lisa, American wife of the Gasthof owner Michael Mogler. The town was out of the pages of a fairy tale by the brothers Grimm.



Had Schweinebraten that evening for dinner after having a large local beer, Alpirsbach Klosterbräu, Bier vom Fass.

German beer is tastier than American beer. Our group enjoys drinking and socializing. Beer makes me foggy and robs me of complete enjoyment of the moment.

Tuesday June 1
First day of riding in Schiltach



View Larger Map


Next day was raining and cold but by eleven it was dry enough for a bicycle ride to Freudenstadt, a larger city north of Schiltach. We wanted to follow the bike path and stay off the "Landstrasse". We went astray on the curvy route and got onto a mountain path that was little more than an animal path through the woods.




The forest reminded me of the heavy forests of Tolkien novels. Trees, bushes and plants dripping with moisture; the heavy overhead canopy filtering the light. Moss and shade loving plants, greenery that would be unimaginable in New Mexico.

The heavy bikes were ideal for the mountain trail. Many of the slopes were very steep, uneven and rock covered and I was forced to walk the bike a number of times. Soon we were as wet from the exertion as the plants from the humidity even though the temperature was only in the high fifties.

We reached Freudenstadt and had Kebaps in a bistro near the train station. We returned on the train to Alpirsbach and rode from there back to Schiltach. That evening I had Maultasch which was noodles with spinach and ham. The group got together in our room, which was larger than others, and watched the CD of the night watchman talk.

Wednesday June 2
Every day has been cloudy; only occasionally does the sun break through. For that, the landscape is green. I have seen bridal wreath spirea bushes 8 feet tall. There are lovely rhododendrons and azaleas. Grass growths everywhere. The forests of the Black Forest are truly dark.



There are lovely trout streams. There is no undergrowth or vegetation on the river banks to foul flyline. The streams flow at a moderate rate; ideal for a drag free float of the fly. But there are no fishermen and no fishing. Michael said it was very expensive for a license. It would be worth paying a lot of money; these are the finest waters I have ever seen.

There are with all the rain lovely vegetation as well. One of my favorite bushes is bridal wreath spirea. I proudly show off my 3 foot plants at home. They grow to 10 feet here.




Today we rode to Gengenbach with a stop at Haslach for lunch. All of these little towns are immaculately clean with beautiful picturesque houses. One wonders where the poor people live. They don't have "trailer trash" anywhere that I have seen.


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Gengenbach was a larger town with a large town square. We had drinks directly on the square. On the square the local men were building a stage for the holiday on the next day. When we got back to the Gasthof where we were staying, I found out that tomorrow is Fronleichnam (Corpus Christi), a Catholic holiday celebrated in Baden Wurtemburg.

We had pizza for dinner, probably not the most appropriate dinner for Germany.

Thursday June 3
The day felt colder to me; only 6 of the 9 rode and we rode in two separate groups. Richard and Pat went on a separate ride while Ed, John W., Dee and I headed back to Wolfach. The day had off and on rain but the temperature was just right for riding or other outdoor activities.


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We stopped in Wolfach; sadly for us, all the stores were closed for the holiday. We rode on to Oberwolfach and had lunch at the 3 Konige. Our waitress was attractive and she occupied our time. I had a Spargelkremesuppe, asparagas soup.

That evening I had a turkey dish with curry sauce. It was Roger's birthday so we feted him.




Cheryl brought a lovely cake with candles and wine. A couple from Colorado, Keri and Kevin, joined us. We sang "Ein Prosit der Gemütlichkeit" to celebrate.

ßäöü


Friday June 4
Trip to Fuessen
Today was a travel day. We left the Schwarzwald and the Gasthof zur Alten Bruecke and began the long drive to Fuessen. We ran into our first "Vehrkehrsstau" traffic jam as we headed south (or more accurately east) out of the black forest.

We finally reached the Bodensee (Lake Constance) which forms the border between Germany and Switzerland. We also got our first view of the Alps. The Alps are more impressive that our local Rocky Mountains, truth to tell. I would compare the views we have had with Glacier National Park or some place farther north. The landscape is stunning.

We stopped first at a church called "die Birkau" which was a splendid church on the Bodensee. The church was very rococo, splendid with ceiling paintings like the Sistine Chapel. Next we travel to Lindau. Lindau is an island on the Bodensee which caters to tourists. It is a beautiful town however. There were many young people enjoying the beautiful views all around. We eat a lunch of pizza.

Finally we traveled to Fuessen and then over the border to Austria. Our Gasthof was just across the border in Austria although the town Fuessen is in Germany (actually Bavaria).

For the evening meal, I had an excellent Wiener Schnitzel. As with all our rooms previously, the accomodations were excellent. We are fortunate to take advantage of Dee's knowledge and experience.

The weather is also better.

Saturday June 5
We drove into Fuessen after a frenetic breakfast. A entire busload of people from Slovenia (we think) shared the breakfast room with us. It was every man for himself.

The bike shop was next door to the Bahnhof in Fuessen. We got the best bikes we have yet rented. We started with the plan to ride around the lake there called Forgennsee. We started in a clockwise direction. I got separated from the group. This gave me the opportunity to do some exploring on my own. I began circumnavigating the lake but got diverted and ended up in a quiet Bavarian town called Lechbruch. Like so many towns in Germany, there was a magnificent Dom which I entered. Like the Birkau from yesterday, it was rococo with gaudy paintings on the walls.



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With the church was a cemetery. Looking at the gravestones, I noticed many with a last name Keller. I also saw that Ludwig Keller was one of the local boys who had died in World War I.

At a Gaststatte there in Lechbruch, I mentioned that my mother's maiden name was Keller and the family came from the Bodensee area. I was encouraged to visit the priest in Lechbruch. I did not find him at home and I wasn't prepared with names of my Keller ancestors, so I felt that should wait for another day.

I ran into the rest of the group at an outdoor restaurant facing the water. We returned to Sauling Gasthaus/Pension. While the others drove into town, Dee and I stayed at the Gasthaus and enjoyed dinner. The venison Ragout Hirschragout that I had was very good.

Sunday June 6


This was another a long day on the bicycle. While the others went to view Neuschwanstein castle, I rode. Started by taking the wrong road from our place Gasthaus Sauling. We had returned on a dirt road the day before and so I got on what I thought was the same path. However, this road became devilishly and unrelentingly steep.

I returned to the highway and found the correct road. John Woods later told me of another dirt bike path that was yet easier.

I was very tired from yesterday and planned to do some shopping in Fuessen but it was Sunday and the shops were closed. In Germany, there are no Walmarts or Walgreens or any stores that are open 7 days a week. There are sitdown restaurants open and little else.

I decided to ride to WeissenSee (Whites Lake) because it was close. The lake was quite pretty. It was not tourist oriented like yesterday's Forgennsee. Mostly local people used the lake. I saw a fisherman who was rowing a boat with a fishing rod with a large plug on it.

There was yet another church Pfarrkirche St Walburga which was first built in 1200. It was renovated around 1500 and again in 1700 to its present form which was very baroque. It had a graveyard with people who had died in the last 20 years. I saw a word "Ausgrabung" and I wondered if that referred to the German practice of removing those dead whose graves were no longer cared for.

I decided I wanted to go back to Lechbruch to talk to the priest about the Kellers there but then I realized that that was a long ride for me in my present condition. So I went to another nearby lake, HopfenSee (Hopfen lake).

This lake was developed. It has a somewhat larger village on one side called Hopfen am See (Hopfen on the lake). This too was occupied by mostly German tourists. But it differed from Weissen because of the wealth evident in the town. Not a place I would enjoy.



View Fuessen to WeissenSee, Hopfensee and Bannwaldsee in a larger map


I returned to Fuessen and had a beer at a restaurant. It was a Konig Ludwig Dunkel. I did not realize how dehydrated I was. I had plenty of water but finding a bathroom is a problem as Germany does not have many public bathrooms so I tend to drink less water. The single beer made me drunk.

As I was sitting there, Dee walked by. He told me he was going to join the others. So I went with him. I was so woozy that I thought I should not be on a bike. When we met Pat and Cheryl, I considered walking with them. But then I thought physical exercise would help me work off the alcohol so I decided to ride with the fellows.

We had a good ride around a third lake named Bannwaldsee. We stopped at an inn near Mühlberg not far from Füssen. I was by now sober but not wanting any more beer so I followed Richard and had an ice cream sunday.

Our ride was over and we needed to return the bikes to the bicycle shop. Although it was closed we were to put the bikes in an enclosed area and lock them. Just before reaching the shop, I knicked a pole with the end of my handlebars and took a chunk of flesh out of my little finger. My bike fell but I remained standing. I did not know it at the time but I wrenched the back of my knee trying to avoid falling.

We returned the bikes and drove back to our Gasthaus. We had a pleasant dinner outdoors. I had Schweinebraten with an extra helping of vegetables and bread. I also finished off the night with another ice cream sunday called a croup danemark.

My leg had stiffened up during dinner and I had trouble getting up the stairs to my room. During the night my leg began hurting.

Monday June 7
Today was a travel day to Frankfurt. My leg was stiff. After moving around some, the leg loosened up so that I could limp around. We got going at 9:15 and drove to the basilica in Ottobeuren. The pictures show the majesty and beauty of the place.

We drove then to Ulm, a city of 120,000 in Southern Germany, not as big as Mainz which is 200,000. Nonetheless we had the variety of a larger city plus the Münster cathedral, a huge cathedral first started in 900 ad. Its latest form however is from the 19th century. It currently is suffering from pollution damage and renovation is being done. I enjoyed Ulm and we hung around for several hours.

Finally drove on to Frankfurt. The hotel was conveniently located near the airport but lacked the amenities and Gemütlichkeit of the other places we stayed at.

After a 10 hour plane ride the next day, we arrived in Dallas/Fort Worth to extreme heat and humidity. Another hour and a half ride to Albuquerque and again heat thankfully with little humidity.

Final Impressions
Germany has changed since I lived there only in the use of modern technology. Many of the residences are unchanged, likely due to the attitude of German carpenters of making something to last. Some commercial buildings in big cities are identical to those in the USA and so the initial impression is one of never leaving the states. But that changes in small towns and one finds the unique culture that enchanted me when I was young.

I am glad that Germany has resisted fairly successfully the plastic culture of America. I would like to see if in East Germany, the German identity is more untainted.

Here are links to photos taken by members of the group. These photos tell better than my words of Germany's beauty.



Sunday, May 9, 2010

Heartbreak Hill


It was my birthday, May 8, and I wanted to celebrate as every avid cyclist does, with a ride of near intolerable pain and ecstasy. In reality, one of the members of New Mexico Touring Society proposed riding up Heartbreak Hill as a workout for the Santa Fe century on May 16.

The Santa Fe century is a nationally recognized ride which is classified on the web site as medium difficult but is not for the faint of heart. The section that literally takes one's breath away is the section called heartbreak hill.

I had never ridden up Heartbreak Hill but I had heard the stories from other riders in the club. Tom Sullivan spoke of weaving through riders who got off the bike on the hill and walked it up. Young people asked him how he was able to do this feat and his reply was "You have to be at least 63 years old (his age at the time)". Flatlanders who came from sea level convinced they were in shape had sad awakenings.

There was a small but determined group of seven of us at the library branch in Tijeras, NM. May in Albuquerque is normally an excellent time for outdoor activities. However, in the mountains, the first signs of Spring are just arriving and winter still wants to keep a strangle hold on the weather.

Ole Man Winter had the day in hand. While Albuquerque had high temperatures approaching 80 degrees, it was high thirties in this village in the mountains. The wind was 12 mph from the east. We would travel north to Heartbreak but then turn east into the hill. Riding up an 18 percent grade with a 30 mph head wind at an altitude of 7,500 ft was a possibility.



We left Tijeras at 9:00 am. All of us were underdressed. Shortly after we started, one of our group of seven deserted us. The cold, not the mountain, did him in.

Northern New Mexico has four areas with different vegetation. The lowest is the desert with cactus, sparse grass and no trees. A desert area will have moister areas that have cottonwood trees and plant life attuned to low water needs.

At a elevation just below the alpine is an intermediate area of scrub juniper and pinion. The mountains themselves are covered by Ponderosa pines and spruce. Tijeras is in the moutains with the pine trees. But as we headed north along state road NM 14, we initially descended into the scrub juniper landscape.





The descent started after an initial ascent of 7 or 8 miles. At one point I realized a downhill speed of 37 mph. The speed is invigorating until one realizes that one must climb on the return.

I traveled with Ed Kjelgaard who was a Santa Fe century veteran. Ed consistently places at the top of the club mileage chart. Long daily rides seem to be his daily bread.

The east crosswind occasionally buffeted me and Ed as we proceeded north but the shrubs provided a wind block as well.


The soil along the side of the road was brick red, something I have not seen in other places.

The road that we traveled is called the Turquoise Trail presumably because the area was mined by the Pueblo Indians for that mineral. Their jewelry is indicative of their love for turquoise.

To the north of us were the former mining towns of Madrid and Cerrillos which are now artist communities and visiting magnets for tourists.

We would turn east before we reached either of those villages.


The picture to the left shows the first view of Heartbreak. Not that imposing perhaps.

The picture below shows me standing to the side of the road prior to the turn that starts the climb.

I read that for optimal climbing, one should stay in the saddle, and, if one does stand on the pedals, stay upright rather than bend over.
Above all, one must refrain from becoming anaerobic, out of breath, as this state accelerates a tiredness and then exhaustion.



I had this in mind as I started the climb. Even as my legs started burning, I stayed in the saddle. But as my legs weakened, I realized that if I got too slow, I would no longer be able to balance the bike. If I came to a stop, it was unlikely that I would be able to start again on the steep incline.
My response was to stand on the pedals. The upright position was not working as I, like most people, bend over for more efficient lung operation.
And, under such exertion, it was impossible not to get out of breath. In fact, my lungs were exploding after several hundred yards.
I decided that whoever wrote the text had never ridden at elevation and had never been in the Rocky Mountains.
So I continued standing on my pedals bent over to the point that my nose touched the handlebars until I could go no farther. I pulled to the side and put down a foot. I looked down the hill to see Ed zigzagging across the road not out of breath and not far behind me who had been going all out.
After catching my breath, I looked to resume. There was no other way to get going but to head perpendicular across the road and then zigzag like Ed was doing. The unfortunate thing about this movement is that one moves into the lane of traffic moving the other way. I was fortunate that the driver, who was coming down the mountain, saw me in time to stop.
When I finally came close to the top, I had sufficient energy left to go back to my bent-over-standing-on-the-pedals position and finish.
What did I learn from this? That I know nothing about really steep climbs. Also, that few, if any, of those who have written about climbing know about steep climbs. Yet a cyclist runs into such climbs often enough that he or she should have a strategy. That strategy will most likely vary with each person and even with the conditioning of a person at the time of the climb.




Ed and I made it to the top and rewarded ourselves by taking each other's pictures. The ride back to Tijeras was uneventful as we both most likely were reviewing our performances going up Heartbreak.





Our merry band of climbers regrouped at the Greenside Cafe in Cedar Crest NM, just a few miles from Tijeras where we enjoyed breakfast burritos.



Sunday, May 2, 2010

My First Hundred Mile Bicycle Ride


For a bicyclist, a century ride is a big accomplishment. It means that you have conditioned your body to the extent that you can ride the six to eight hours necessary to complete a ride of that distance. This conditioning will most likely include hours of training, dieting to lower weight and mental hardening to endure fatigue brought on by the activity.

I started bicycle riding 8 years ago while still pursuing the sport of competitive weightlifting.
It was obvious that a new sport was needed. The left shoulder was stiff and no longer snapped overhead, the right hamstring caused pain when I rose on my toes and both hips were severely arthritic.

I liked the idea of bicycle riding. My weight had gone to 220 lbs for the weightlifting meet at the New Mexico State Games in 1999 when I turned 50. I lifted well at that weight but I could no longer run for any distance and the blood pressure and cholesterol were at marginally serious levels. Bicycling might change those problems.

So I became a cyclist. I lost weight and my aerobic fitness improved. As I was forced to end both my weightlifting and scuba diving careers, the bicycling played an increasingly important role in my life.

Last year in 2009, the college where I worked, closed its doors and I found myself out of work and at loose ends. Fortunately I had sold my house and my Corvette and had invested the money in CDs. The interest from those investments was enough to eke out an ascetic existence. At a friend's suggestion, I joined the New Mexico Touring Society.

At first, I rode 25 miles, half of the club ride average distance. After a few weeks, I was able to complete entire rides.

In October, again at a friend's insistence, I signed up for a ride that was purely climbing for 36 miles. I say "purely climbing"; of course, there are downhills for every uphill climb but 70 percent of your time is spent climbing the hill so it seems as if you are only climbing.

I was a poor climber. My weight, though it had decreased to 205, was still at least 30 lbs more than that of the fellows of my height who could climb well. Weight is the biggest detriment to cyclists in general and to climbers in particular.

The ride was more disastrous than I anticipated. During the climbs, my lungs were exploding and I felt nauseous. Later, fatigue set in and the leg muscles became like spaghetti. At the steepest spots I got off my bicycle and walked the ascent.

I lost sight of fellow club members. By the time I reached the parking lot at the end of the ride, my car was the only one left. For a lifelong athlete such as myself, this was humiliating and infuriating.

I vowed to lose weight and improve aerobic conditioning. On the dieting side, I decided to stop eating at 7 pm at night. I indulge myself in the evening hours snacking. That had to stop. For the aerobic conditioning, I decided to try running again. I thought with my bike riding, I should be able to run a mile.

Neither thing went well. It was very uncomfortable to deprive myself of food at night. And the running did not even get off the ground as my arthritic hips pained me the minute I started running.

To keep focused on dieting and conditioning goals, I signed up for the most physically difficult activity sponsored by the club. It is four days of climbing mountains in central Colorado whose peaks are from 11,000 to 12, 200 feet altitude. The ride took place in July 2010, nine months away.

By Christmas it was obvious to me that both the dieting and the running were failures. I quit them and went to visit my brother and sister in Phoenix and think about how to proceed.

My next conditioning attempt happened by chance. I was riding every day in Phoenix and putting up good distances, longest being 57 miles. Long distance riding every day might get me in shape for the Colorado event.

This proved a mistake. My right knee bothered me to the point that I was unable to ride.

I took up swimming laps. Initially I could not swim more that 100 yards before having to stop and catch my breath but, after awhile, things improved and I got to swimming non-stop for 30 minutes. My speed improved as well and I was covering 1000 meters in the 30 minute time period.

Meanwhile, I used the city library to research diet books. The best, by Weight Watchers, said that one should restrict calories to an amount less than current intake. Restricting eating in the evening had no effect on weight loss. It was not about when you eat but simply how much you eat.

That sounded good to me. I started recording everything I ate in the course of a day. I found Internet sites that listed calorie counts for food. I established how much I was eating.

Then I tried to reduce calories. I left myself enough calories at the end of the day that I could "graze" in the evenings. Even so, I found that I was hungry much of the time.

What came of this was the need to find foods that had a lot of bulk but few calories. Bulk was necessary to give a feeling of satiation. For example, oatmeal is gives one the feeling of fullness for a small calorie expenditure.

Other foods like oatmeal, bulk without calories, were hot air popcorn, vegetables and fruits. Hot air popcorn does not have the taste of popcorn cooked in oil but you can eat a lot with little calorie cost. Same for vegetables.

I seldom enjoy a salad; lettuce has no calories but no food satiation either. Adding cucumber slices and broccoli to a salad give it bulk. A carrot with the all requisite chewing causes a full feeling too.

You need calorie dense food. I ate peanut butter sandwiches using high quality bread and peanut butter. I kept meat in my diet. Lean ham has fewer calories than turkey and so I included ham sandwiches lathered with Dijon mustard.

Burritos, made with tomato, whole pinto beans, onions, whole wheat tortillas and, of course, our New Mexico hot green chile, are low in calories but very filling.

My weight dropped to 185. The weight loss produced a second effect. My hips did not hurt so much with the lower weight. I started running again, moving my distance to 3 miles. I started bike riding again.

The change was remarkable. I stay with other cyclists in the hills. Mine would not be the last car in the parking lot!

That brings me to May 1st, 2010. I had planned for a century ride for awhile. In New Mexico we have two major century rides, the Albuquerque Century and the Santa Fe century. Both of those occur at inopportune times for me. So, when Chris Marsh posted his "Jemez Jundred" on the club web site, I knew this would be the initiation.

To ride 100 miles in Albquerque is difficult. The altitude is over 5000 feet. We are surrounded by the Rocky mountains. Even riding west toward the volcanoes is an elevation gain of 1000 feet. The Rocky mountains is my region of choice. My most memorable events of my youth were of vacations in the mountains. Most of that has to do with our father's love of trout fishing. We spent vacations in Red River, Monument Lake in Colorado and El Porvenir. It was obvious that I would choose New Mexico as my home.

One's first century ride should take place on a flat area. I had no such choice. But a trip to the Jemez mountains was good. The ride that Chris suggested would stop at Jemez Springs which is where the cottonwood trees and scrub brush changed to Ponderosa pines and alpine greenery. It is also where the grade changes from about 4 percent to the 8, 12 and 20 percent grades of the high mountains.

I like the Jemez. I have fished there more than anywhere else. Our ride would start at Bernalillo New Mexico. Bernalillo is about 12 miles north of my home. We would ride from there to San Isidro, a smaller village consisting of maybe a dozen homes. We would then ride into Jemez pueblo. The pueblo Indians have the largest population of all New Mexico tribes just edging out the Navajo.

The Jemez pueblo is on the main road. We would go by the fire station, the high school and the tourist center. Just past this, we would turn east and ride 6 miles to Ponderosa winery. New Mexico wines are good and have grown in prestige to the point that ours rank favorably with California and even French wines.

From the winery, we would then go to the conjunction of the Jemez and Guadalupe rivers and go up the road that parallels the Guadalupe river for a distance of around 8 miles to the Gilman tunnels.

The Guadalupe river has carved a canyon between the mountains there. The narrow road that goes along one side of the canyon has two short tunnels cut through the rock. The view from the area between Gilman tunnels is stunning and worth the climb.


From Gilman tunnels we would proceed to Jemez Springs. Jemez Springs is a small town with several buildings that have a typical Western facade. The most famous of these is the Los Ojos saloon. I have seen several colorful types at the bar there.

From Jemez Springs we would ride back to Bernalillo.

So I found myself on May day, the first of May, at 7:30 am in a parking lot in Bernalillo. The weather had not cooperated. The wind had blown unmercifully for two days and dropped our mid seventies temperatures to the mid forties. December in May!

I was wearing a long sleeve jersey with a wind breaker. I had on my biking shorts with leg warmers which I did not plan to take off the entire day. I had winter gloves on.

I had had the obligatory spaghetti meal the night before and my standard breakfast which consisted of an apple, an orange and a banana with 2 large biscuits that I make every day from scratch consisting of white whole wheat flour, baking powder, teaspoon of oil and water. I
had weighted my bike with 2 pounds of trail mix, dried fruit, granola bars and power bars. My bodyweight was 185 lbs. I had had adequate rest.

There were eight of us who were going to ride one hundred miles. Two others were going to ride to San Isidro and turn around.

The wind had subsided and the clouds were gone. Even the veteran riders began at a cautious pace. That changed as we felt a headwind. There was a need to cover as much distance as possible before the wind became nasty.

At ten miles, the group that I was with, stopped for food. A man of my size burns more than 600 calories an hour at a moderately fast speed. The only way to avoid "bonking," the cyclist's term for "hitting the wall", that is, running to the end of your glycogen stores, is to eat through the day.

Unfortunately, my appetite deserts me during physical training and eating for me during those times is unpleasant. However, I forced down a banana during this 30 second stop.

Burying the banana peel in the soil along side the road, I was late to start and had to catch the group. This brief high energy stint made me aware of the grade of the climb we were doing and the wind blowing into our faces. Up to that point, the adrenaline flow I was experiencing kept me from noticing.

I got behind a veteran A-level rider, Richard who was by himself. In bicycling, drafting is very important. While tail-gating is wrong when driving a car, it is imperative that you take advantage of the windbreak that a fellow rider gives you when you ride.

Let me mention about the term A-level. In our club, any rider who can maintain over 20 mph is considered A-level. A rider that maintains 15 to 20 mph is a B-level, 12-15 is C level.

I stayed behind Richard too long and should have volunteered to take over the lead sooner but I was fearful of wearing myself down so I hesitated. Richard sensed my anxiety because when I offered to "pull" awhile, he said he was fine. So I stayed behind him for more than 10 miles. When I took the lead, I was blasted by wind. What a jerk I was letting this guy endure the lead for so long. I had ridden in the lead for just over a mile when Richard moved back in front of me. I was grateful.

Richard led us the last two miles to San Isidro. We were 24 miles into the ride. The first quarter was behind us.

My windbreaker had been acting as a sail in the wind so I took it off. Better endure the cold rather than fight the wind. At San Isidro eight other riders joined while two turned around. We were 16. There was another larger group of riders in San Isidro who were training for a century in Tucson. They would ride for donations to leukemia research. They had a SAG wagon accompanying them. A SAG wagon carries food, clothing, and bike paraphenalia for the group. This van even had 3 backup bikes on a bike rack. I initially thought this SAG wagon was intended for us and had to be politely pointed toward our group.

The eight riders who joined us in San Isidro would ride 52 miles or a half century. As we started again after a 15 minute break, I felt pain in the back of the right knee, the recurrent weightlifting injury. This was of concern as there were 76 miles of riding left.


The village of Jemez pueblo was just a few miles past San Isidro. It is a colorful place with adobe homes made of the red brown adobe of the Jemez. This red brown adobe color serves as a precursor to the much brighter red found in the area.

A few miles past the pueblo, we turned east toward the Ponderosa winery. The moderate grade became steeper and my knee protested.


This vineyard, in the lower Jemez mountains, has some reputation as I have seen the wine displayed in stores. I have never sampled it but plan to do so in future. The owner was happy to see us in spite of the fact that we would not be making any purchases. She invited us to sample the wines letting us know that we could spit out the wine after sampling but no one accepted her offer. If the others felt as I did, food and drink was completely unappealing.

When our ride leader, Chris bought a coke, I impulsively followed suit. This was the first soft drink I had had in months. Because we were in a hurry, so I guzzled it down. Something happened. The coke ameliorated the pain in the knee.

We rode back to the main road to Jemez Springs. The wind in the mountains was not as strong as we experienced riding to San Isidro but the clouds had increased and the sun, which made the high forties temperature seem balmy, disappeared now and again.





Another 6 miles and we reached the Jemez - Guadalupe rivers conjunction. My brothers and I consider fly fishing a necessity much as food clothing and shelter. When I told my younger brother Tim that I was riding the Jemez, he immediately asked if I was bringing a fly rod. As silly as it sounds, I considered it.

But the water on this day precluded any thought of fly fishing. It was coffee colored and roiling. We crossed the bridge over the Jemez and proceeded to the Gilman tunnels.

The Guadalupe has carved a canyon through that part of the Santa Fe National forest. It is a dazzling sight less than 60 miles from Albuquerque. The Gilman tunnels are carved through rock for a road that lies on one side of the canyon walls.

The canyon there reminds me of Lee's Ferry at the east end of the Grand Canyon.


We stopped there at an outlook to sightsee, take pictures and have a bite to eat. I had a granola bar which normally is a treat but tasted today like cardboard. We were at 46 miles and had completed the second quarter.

We rolled back to the Jemez highway. Downhill stretches are wonderful. I was able to celebrate the halfway mark without having to pedal.

We turned back onto Jemez road and started climbing again. As we turned, we saw the dark heavy cumulus clouds to the north. The temperature was by then in the lower fifties. A shower at that point was something all preferred not to think about.

Though the best fishing on the Jemez is above Jemez Springs, I have caught fish in the lower parts of the river in winter. At that time, the browns move from their high mountain locales seeking the warmth of the water in lower elevations.

The ride to Jemez Springs was 7 miles but felt like more. I had not been drinking enough and the dehydration was telling. I kept telling myself that I would drink at lunch there at the Springs.

Jemez Springs is known for a church in ruins that is several hundred years old (erected by the Indians under the guidance of Spanish priests), the Los Ojos saloon, a spa and seminary for Catholic priests who need rehabilitation (guess you know what that means).

At the restaurant across the street from the saloon, we had lunch. We had ridden 58 miles. My lower back, neck and legs were very sore. I had no desire to eat although it was two o'clock in the afternoon.

I ordered a hamburger with potato salad. This was the first hamburger I had eaten in months. During the meal, I began to relax, first letdown in the adrenaline rush all day. I drank a couple of glasses of water. I entertained the thought of going over to the spa and getting a massage.

Sitting in a chair for a half hour was a mixed blessing. Standing, I found that my joints were stiff. I had 42 miles yet to ride.

I had a power bar after the hamburger and the sugar gave me enough of a rush that I was able to resume.

The wind had picked up in the interval. We were looking forward to a tail wind but the mountains whipped the wind around so that at times it was at your back and then suddenly in your face.

Back to San Isidro was 18 miles. Though it was mostly downhill, the occasional uphill sections were difficult.

On the road back, I was passed by a car that caught me daydreaming. They honked in what was meant to be a friendly greeting but the noise caught me by surprise and I went off the shoulder in the soft sand. I nearly toppled. The exertion, caused by the incident, drained me and my speed decreased. San Isidro couldn't come soon enough.

At San Isidro we dropped off the 8 riders doing the half century. I used the break to gulp down a liter of water and apple juice mixture hoping to get a glycogen kick from it.

We had 23.5 miles to ride. Most of it was downhill and with a tail wind. But I did not realize how weakened I was physically. The road ahead was to be one of misery.

We started the last quarter of our trip. Though we were not pedaling as hard as before, I was unable to find a position of comfort. Every body part hurt and no position spared all of them. I was constantly fidgeting from the discomfort.

I kept looking at my odometer. I decided to stop looking so often because it was making me so impatient. I would look away for what I thought was a long time, only to glance down and find that I had only traveled a mile!

And then the pain in the toes started. At first I thought I had stubbed my right big toe. When I pushed the toe against my shoe, it felt like the toenail had broken in two. As I kept probing, I decided that the toenail had come off! This was going to be a nasty sight when I removed my shoe and sock.

It was hard to hold my head up and frequently I dropped my head to rest on my chest. My neck was in pain. When I lowered my head I could no longer see where I was going and would veer. On the shoulder of the road there is a section of road that is covered with rows of bumps. These bumps serve to alert a driver when he or she has run off the road. The vibration wakes them up.

More than once I veered toward the right lane of the highway. The vibration from running on the bumps caused pain in my joints.

I became annoyed at myself for having brought 2 lbs of trail mix. I had not touched the stuff and it was weighing me down. I was angry over this triviality.

At mile 91 of 100 came the first of the hills. Having to climb again after the downhill was a major jolt. It hurt my toes. These hills come before the south turnoff for the town of Rio Rancho.

For some reason I thought there were only two major hills before the town of Bernalillo. I was somewhat mentally prepared to attack these two. When I encountered a third, I groaned. My pedaling slowed and I felt very weak.

I stopped at a light and a couple fellows in the group caught me. Their companionship cheered me. Misery loves company.

I arrived at the parking lot having clocked exactly 100.15 miles. The rain, which had threatened, never materialized.

I took some pictures and asked Donna to take pictures of me. Then I waited for Kathy. Kathy Ortiaga was the other rider who was doing a first century ride. She and I felt a certain kinship because of this and talked about our first hundred miler during the trip.



She arrived and I am sure she was as tired as I was. Before the ride, she was bubbly. Now she looked spent. Still, she managed a smile and showed remarkably bright teeth. We had our picture taken together.

The others went to the cafe but I declined; I still had no appetite. I wanted to get home and shower and see how badly I had injured my foot.

Before I talk about that, I wanted to mention some other figures. Our ride started at 8:00 am and ended right at 5:00 pm. Time spent traveling on the bike was 6 hours and 35 minutes. We took 2 hours and 25 minutes sightseeing, eating and recuperating.


My average speed was 15.2 mph. That makes me a B-level rider although on a longer ride such as this one, over 15 mph is a good result. On a downhill somewhere, I reached a maximum speed of 38.5 mph. My caloric intake was low. Though I theoretically burned more than 5000 calories, my intake for the entire day was 3, 306.

And finally what happened to that toe? Well, I got home, took my shoe off and the toe was perfectly normal. The lost toenail was a phantom injury. The pain in every muscle and joint was not phantom. So I sit in my easy chair today, the day after, and do the only thing I can - I write about the adventure.

I continue to prepare for Colorado, planning to lose weight and improve aerobic capacity. That's another story.

May day was a special day for my mother. She made small baskets of flowers for the neighbors and had us kids ring the neighbor's doorbell, leave the basket and hide. She should have had many May Days in her lifetime but it was not to be. Because of her suffering in her last years and because so much of her life was taken away from her, I dedicate this ride to her.